We did, however, have the foresight to set aside a strip of the cloth – so the belt can be re-made at some point if it becomes frayed.) as stated by the very few negative comments, it is reminiscent of a dressing gown and looks feminine (would be worse without the structure). It gives the impression that the coat was not finished and a belt was added to allow the coat to close. This is how women’s wrap coats are made – more blanket that coat, just loosely brought together at the waist. On most modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other is functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, allow the overlap to fasten reversibly, left lapel over right lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner-button, called the jigger (or anchor button), is usually added to parallel-fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside. [1] I ask you, do these guys look like fat-cat bankers? https://bamfstyle.com/2014/12/07/lazenblazer/ and http://www.bondsuits.com/roger-moore-blue-blazer-boss/

Most of the time the strip of cloth doesn’t show, but even when it does it’s quite tonal and doesn’t look odd.So there are two different styles, that if you ask me, demand being wore two different ways. And I can see how if you are only familiar with one or the other, you can see why there are two sides to the “bottom button” rule. This wasn’t discussed when the coat was being made. I didn’t ask either, but the onus is more on the tailor to ask the customer’s opinion – as they should be aware how much difference it will make to the overall look. I should add that the cut and structure of a DB can also contribute vastly to how casual it looks. But this post is about rules on how any DB should be worn.) A clothing professional who sews garments together after they’ve been cut. Also refers to someone who does alterations or repairs on clothing. You just have to get used to the fact that this is that kind of coat: a little sloppy, never perfect. It’s a look that women are much more used to doing, in scarves as well as coats.

In trousers, an interior button tab which releases tension from the main buttons and zipper of the fly. When I got my first DB, decades ago, some very ancient, sage and classically dressed gentlemen instructed that if one happened not to be a member of the armed forces or a brass band and nevertheless desired to wear a DB suit, that these were the rules: It’s fun researching old designs then recreating or reinterpreting them, finding cloths etc. I can’t post a pic but I can post a link to the picture of Mr Laurel that inspired the coat. You can wrap the two sides completely, and tie it together so the silhouette is the same as a normal overcoat (above).

Batwing

A lapel style in which the lapel juts outward and upward toward the shoulder. Typical of evening wear, morning dress, and non-business suits. An Italian fabric mill headquartered near Naples. Known for high quality and fabrics that often appeal to the dandy set. First, the belt doesn’t stay tied all the time. This is not the fault of the cutter or tailor – it’s just impossible with cloth that doesn’t have a lot more texture. Popularized by Brooks Brothers, this is a type of shirt collar in which the collar points button to the shirt itself. A more casual shirt, it requires longer collar points to achieve a handsome “roll.” This is all made in Whitcomb’s Indian workshop, under their Classic Bespoke offering – so cut and fitted in the UK, but with all other work in southern India.

Fit/Style: As you can see from our selections, there's various different types of baggy jeans and cuts/styles you can choose from. Some baggy jeans are tapered below the knee to create a more narrow look, while others flare out to really emphasize that oversized look. To that point, some baggy jeans are really big/bulky to add to the overall baggy look of the jeans (which is what you saw a lot of in the 1990s and 2000s). Really baggy jeans can mean be multiple things in one, and can blend together multiple elements, it just depends on how baggy you specifically want your jeans to be. The advantage of this – over a standard jigger button, fixed onto that same side of the coat – is that when the coat is untied, both sides can move more freely. Understanding them, weighing them up and acting accordingly is the key – rather than blindly following one or the other. I think I’ll have to wear it with more things, probably over the rest of the winter, before I know.

That means you have to fairly regularly re-tie the belt You can use a double knot, but that looks bulky and inelegant. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the outside. The vertical line that runs from a trouser’s thigh down to them hem. Ideally, it will bisect your knee. When standing, cycling, jumping, laying in one’s coffin or walking one should always keep the lowest of the outer (functioning) buttons undone, whilst keeping buttoned all other outer and inner functioning buttons. (The only exception to this rule was when one was wearing a DB on which only the lowest of the outer buttons was functional. But such suits these gentlemen didn’t wear.)

And a cloth that was soft enough to be happily cinched, but also heavy enough to have drape and flow when untied. A suit making process similar to bespoke insofar as it requires full canvas construction and a customer-exclusive pattern, but doesn’t necessarily require a minimum level of handwork.

Lounge Suit

The belt itself also gives you a few different ways to wear the coat - varying by how open you leave the coat before tying it. So I’m unsure on this point. Which of course, is one of the great reasons why the experiment is reversible.